How to Clean Shower Glass and Keep It Clear

Shower glass goes cloudy for two main reasons: soap scum, which is a film of soap, body oils and minerals, and hard water marks, which are mineral deposits left when water dries on the glass. Both are easy to remove when they are fresh and much harder once they have built up for months. The good news is that you rarely need anything stronger than a squeegee, dishwashing liquid, white vinegar and bicarbonate of soda.

What you need

• A rubber-bladed squeegee
• Two or three microfibre cloths
• A spray bottle
• Dishwashing liquid
• White vinegar
• Bicarbonate of soda
• A soft-bristled brush or old toothbrush, for hinges and channels
• A non-scratch sponge

Leave out steel wool, scouring powder and green scourer pads. They scratch glass and strip coatings.

Step 1: The daily habit

The single most useful thing you can do is squeegee the glass after every shower. It takes under a minute. Start at the top and pull down in overlapping strokes, wiping the blade on a cloth as you go. Finish with a quick wipe along the bottom edge and around the hinges or channels.

Water that is removed straight away cannot dry into spots, and soap has less time to settle into a film. If you do nothing else on this page, do this. Leaving the door open or the exhaust fan running after a shower also helps the room dry out, which slows mould on the silicone and grout as well.

Step 2: The weekly clean

For glass that is looked after daily, a weekly wash is enough:

1. Mix warm water with a few drops of dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle.
2. Spray the glass from top to bottom, inside and out.
3. Wipe with a damp microfibre cloth, working in sections.
4. Rinse with clean warm water, using the hand shower if you have one.
5. Squeegee, then buff any remaining streaks with a dry microfibre cloth.

Dishwashing liquid cuts through body oils and fresh soap film without being harsh on the glass or its coating.

Step 3: Hard water marks

If white spots and streaks remain after a weekly wash, they are likely mineral deposits. A mild acid such as white vinegar dissolves them.

1. Mix white vinegar and warm water in roughly equal parts in a spray bottle. For light marks, more water is fine.
2. Spray the glass and leave it for five to ten minutes to work. On vertical glass, a paper towel soaked in the solution and pressed on the worst spots keeps it in contact longer.
3. Wipe with a microfibre cloth or non-scratch sponge.
4. Rinse thoroughly and squeegee dry.

Protect the surfaces around the glass while you do this. Vinegar can etch natural stone such as marble, travertine and limestone, so keep it off stone floors, shelves and niches, and rinse any drips straight away. Rinse metal fittings promptly too, particularly brushed or matte black finishes, as acids left sitting on them can mark the surface.

Step 4: Heavy soap scum

Built-up soap scum is thicker and more stubborn than hard water spots.

1. Spray with the vinegar solution first to soften the film.
2. Mix bicarbonate of soda with a little water into a spreadable paste.
3. Apply it with a soft cloth or non-scratch sponge and work gently in small circles.
4. Rinse well, then squeegee and dry.

Bicarb fizzes with vinegar, which is harmless, but it does mean you should rinse thoroughly between steps. It is also mildly abrasive, so on coated glass test it on a small corner first. Heavy build-up may take two or three rounds rather than one hard scrub.

Hinges, channels and seals

On frameless screens, clean around the hinges and clamps with a soft brush and warm soapy water. On semi-frameless and framed screens, the bottom rail and wall channels trap water and residue. Brush them out, rinse and wipe dry.

Clear seal strips on the door edges collect soap and discolour over time. They can be washed gently, and replaced cheaply when they go cloudy or stiff.

If there is black mould in the silicone along the base of the screen, that is a sealant problem rather than a glass problem. Surface mould can sometimes be cleaned, but mould that has grown into the silicone usually means it needs to be cut out and replaced.

What to avoid

• Abrasives. Steel wool, scouring powders and scourer pads scratch glass, and scratches hold dirt.
• Razor scrapers on coated glass. Many screens have a factory-applied water-repellent coating. Scraping can remove it, and some coating suppliers advise against scrapers altogether. On uncoated glass, a scraper is best left to a professional.
• Harsh chemicals. Strong acidic or alkaline cleaners can damage coatings and fittings. Check the care instructions that came with the screen.
• Mixing products. Never mix bleach with vinegar or with ammonia-based cleaners. The combinations release toxic gases.
• Cleaning in direct sun or heat. Cleaners dry too fast and leave streaks. Clean when the glass is cool.

Coated glass

A water-repellent coating makes water bead and run off, so glass stays clearer between cleans. It is not permanent. Gentle cleaning with a soft cloth and mild cleaners helps it last. When water stops beading, the coating may be worn, and some glaziers can apply a new one.

When glass will not come clean

If the glass still looks cloudy after the residue is removed, particularly once it is fully dry, it may be etched. Etching happens when mineral deposits are left on glass for a long time and damage the surface itself. Cleaning cannot reverse it. A glazier can tell you whether the panel is worth treating or should be replaced.

Replacing tired glass

Sometimes the screen has simply had its day, with etched panels, worn seals and hinges that no longer close properly. If you are weighing up new glass, our guide to frameless vs semi-frameless shower screens explains the options. A screen is often replaced as part of a bathroom renovation, and failed silicone and grout are covered under waterproofing and tiling. The bathroom renovation cost guide has rough bands for planning. If you are on the Central Coast, we can look at your shower and quote it.